Awesome riding hard

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Families saw me on the roads and invited me to stay at their houses; elderly church-goers offered to make me food. After all, nothing can really prepare you for that first big bike journey, and all those little revelations along the way are the foundations of a true adventure. But ultimately what I discovered is that the vast majority of people—in both cities and the small-town , rural areas I spent the majority of my time passing through—were trusting, open-hearted, and kind. People are overwhelmingly kind. There are only so many weeks in a row you can sleep in a little one-person tent before the idea of having a real bed and a real shower with a real person to talk to becomes a luminous mirage on the horizon. In the mountains, my sleeping bag, a flat fold of polyester better suited to preteen slumber parties, was no warmer than sleeping in a paper bag.

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